CHILE

Out the other end of the tunnel they drove, and now they were in Chile.  They took care of the necessary border paperwork at the aduana checkpoint next to Portillo ski resort and soon headed down the other side of the Andes towards Santiago.  On the way they bathed in a cold creek before dropping too low in elevation.  Santiago was enormous but had toll roads and underground tunnels which enabled them to rapidly navigate the city avoiding chaotic downtown traffic.  These roads were pricy to use but avoided a lot of headache.  Gas was also expensive, as were hotels and food, but one bonus here in Chile was the complete absence of police checkpoints.

Coming down into Chile

Quick dip 

Pat and Debora continued sleeping in the car and cooking their own meals to save money as they made their way south from Santiago.  The nights were comfortable and getting cooler day by day.  Easy to find, safe sleeping spots were available in almost any town.   The toll road which runs the length of Chile's northern region was fast and well maintained, though quite expensive, and along the way there were rest stops with free hot showers!  Yes, living out of their car in Chile was proving to be very nice.  Along their route they visited the surf town Pichilemu, drove by numerous wine vineyards, and saw lots of snowcapped mountains and volcanoes to the east as they neared the beautiful town of Puerto Varas.  One major regret along the way however, was passing by an easily accessible waterfall off the roadside called Saltos De Lajas.

Punta Lobos, Pichilemu

Puerto Varas

They spent a night in Puerto Varas, and even put a few bucks into some slot machines at the casino in hopes of increasing their dwindling budget.  In the morning they made their way to nearby Puerto Montt where they began searching for options to navigate Chile's southern half.  From this point on, dirt roads and ferries were the only available options for navigating the region by car, and there are numerous ways to combine these modes of transportation.  Debora and Pat decided to take a cheap and quick ferry from Pargua to Chacao on the Isla Grande De Chiloe, drive the length of the island visiting fishing villages and points of interest along the way, and then load their car onto a small ship headed from Quellon to Puerto Chacabuco.  From Puerto Chacabuco they would drive along La Carretera Austral for the remainder of their time in Chile before crossing back into Argentina.  And so they did.

The first ferry was cheap and fast

The second ferry not so much

Once the car was loaded onto the ship in Quellon, it left the dreary port at dusk and began its 30 hour journey through the maze of islands and canals.  Deb and Pat slept a few hours in their seats and on the floor of the passenger area during the night, and in the morning they awoke surrounded by lush costal mountains lined with cascades pouring into the ocean.  The ship spent all day winding its way through island channels past small villages and distant mountaintop glaciers in the clouds.  Just after dark they docked at Puerto Chacabuco and unloaded.  

Very remote village

Pat on the bow

Covered peaks

They slept in the car not far from the port, and in the morning headed towards Coihaique, the largest town in the region.  There were dank forests, gushing rivers, and beautiful waterfalls along the way.  After passing through Coihaique, they entered more attractive scenery, and upon rounding one corner, suddenly encountered an especially gnarly looking mountain called Cerro Castillo.  Pat's mouth watered at the sight of jagged spires and steep snow filled chutes with which the central peak was ridden.

Back on land

Cascade 

A different cascade

Cerro Castillo

Just a few kilometers further down the road the asphalt turned to dirt and remained so for several hundred remote kilometers to come.  They drove through forests, past little lakes, and along big glacial rivers, eventually reaching the enormous glacial turquoise lake called Gral. Cabrera (aka: Lago Buenos Aires in Argentina).  They continued for many kilometers following its shore and spent one night in the car about half way along.  By afternoon the next day after passing another amazing lake called Laguna Verde they reached a town called Chile Chico next to the border with Argentina.  They patched a flat tire which had been punctured during the last few miles of the journey, and bought some groceries with their remaining Chilean pesos.  Then crossed into Argentina for the second time.

Glacial river

Countdown to start cooking

Lake Gral. Cabrera 

Very long and beautiful lake Gral. Cabrera 

Stunning Laguna Verde near Chile Chico

TRICKS

- Take advantage of the rest areas.

TROUBLES

- Expensive tolls and the most expensive gas so far.