Monday, January 24, 2011

EQUADOR

Ao entrar no Equador tiveram a impressao de ser um pais bem tranquilo, apesar da aparencia pobre das vilas. Porque ja estava tarde ficaram no primeiro motel que viram, um pouco antes de Tulcan. O quarto era bonito, limpo e barato, mas tinha um casal fora de controle na vizinhanca que atrapalhou um pouco o sono dos viajantes.
De manha bem cedo partiram para o sul e visitaram a Gruta La Paz e suas aguas termais. Um rio emerge da gruta e a mesma pode ser considerada uma igreja natural, ja que assentos e uma imagem santa foram adicionados ao seu interior. As piscinas de aguas termais foram construidas por homens, estavam bem tratadas, e nao custaram nada naquele dia.
O objetivo depois dali era chegar a Quito e visitar o museo da metade do mundo, mas como nao sabiam exatamente onde era, pararam para uma pesquisa apressada na internet com medo de que talvez nao chegassem a tempo para visitar. 
Chegaram a praca da metade do mundo onde pagaram para entrar e caminhar ate o monumento. Dentro do monumento ha um museo, e o endereco que pegaram na internet era quase o mesmo, por isso pagaram para entrar e ver. Infelizmente esse nao era o mesmo que estavam buscando, o que Debora tinha ouvido falar atravez de uma amiga francesa, Gessyca. O museo que sua amiga tinha visitado era um com uma pequena tour incluindo experimentos interessantes e divertidos e estava somente ha dois blocos e ainda estaria aberto por quase uma hora. Por isso apressaram-se em sair do museo dentro do monumento (desinteressante na opiniao de ambos) e caminharam ate o museo It Inan. Assim que chegaram la pagaram sua entrada de 3 dolares e rapidamente um guia chegou para leva-los numa pequena jornada pelo museo. Agora sim estavam satisfeitos, principalmente Debora que foi a unica do grupo que conseguiu equilibrar um ovo num prego na linha do Equador e recebendo assim um certificado. Ao terminar a tour voltaram a praca para observar as artesanias e tomar chocolate quente antes de encontrarem um albergue do estudante para dormirem nas redondezas de Quito.
O dia seguinte foi praticamente todo dentro do carro. Como os viajantes ja estavam cansados de dirigir por estradas curvas e lentas, decidiram ir em direcao ao litoral, mesmo assim tiveram que dirigir por montanhas. Essa rota que tomaram foi lindissima, com muitas cachoeiras e florestas nubladas. Quando os vilarejos comecaram a aparecer notaram muitos corpos de porcos pendurados, e mulheres vendiam porco frito fresco como se fossem barracas de cachorro-quente. Pat, como sempre esfomeado teve que parar para comprar, enquanto Debora nao queria nem olhar para os corpos ainda com sangue dos coitados dos porcos.
Depois de algumas horas mais chegaram a cidade litoranea de Manta. Manta era maior que o esperado, tinha seu lado feio e seu lado bonito, e foi ai que encontraram uma rua para dormir perto da praia
As proximas atracoes encontradas atravez da internet foram Punta los Frailes e Agua Blanca. Ambos fazem parte do Parque Nacional Machalilla estao praticamente lado a lado mas sao distintos. Los Frailes (US $ 2,00 p.p) e uma area de praias belissima, enquanto Agua Blanca e uma area indigena que conta com aguas termais. A visita a Agua Blanca vem com um guia local para explicar um pouco das origens e historias da regiao e inclui barros vulcanicos e banho em aguas termais.
No mesmo dia continuaram descendo pela estrada costeira, repleta de praias arenosas com ondas otimas para fazer surfe. Chegaram a Salinas, como haviam programado, e dormiram mais uma vez bem perto da praia.
De manha fizeram cafe-da-manha em frente ao mar antes de partirem em direcao ao Parque Nacional El Cajas. No caminho estava a cidade grande Guayaquil que nao puderam evitar e acabaram se perdendo um pouco. Reencontraram-se e continuaram a caminho do parque, que mais uma vez era por sobre as montanhas. Ao chegarem a uma altitude elevada o clima comecou a ficar nebuloso e chuvoso, alem, logicamente de lento. Ainda assim puderam observar algumas das belezas naturais e vida selvagem do parque, tais como lagos e llamas. Por causa do clima, decidiram nao sair do carro e continuar dirigindo lentamente para observar as maravilhas naturais que se podia ver da estrada.
Cuenca e uma cidade colonial e apesar de ser turistica mantem seus otimos precos em restaurantes. La o casal decidiu ficar numa hospedaria para descansar da viagem exaustiva. 
Debora e Pat estavam divididos em qual fronteira com o Peru tomar. Pelo pouco que pesquisaram Loja parecia ser mais interessante, porem seria uma viagem mais lenta e cansativa, alem de provavelmente terem que passar mais um dia em Equador. Por El Oro provavelmente nao seria tao interessante, porem muito mais rapido e eficaz. Optaram por El Oro.
Ha aproximadamente um ano o Equador abriu uma nova passagem pela fronteira e aparentemente nao muita gente sabe disso porque os viajantes passaram tranquilamente pela aduana e imigracao, sem terem que esperar em fila. A outra fronteira mais conhecida e que os locais utilizam para fazer compras e a de Aguas Verdes, que e muito mais caotica e vagarosa que ainda bem nao tiveram que ver com os proprios olhos.
Alguns dos destaques sobre Equador sao igualdade de precos de atracoes para locais e extrangeiros, bom preco de gasolina, comida boa e barata, simpatia dos habitantes e oficiais da imigracao e aduana.


DICAS

- Encha seus galoes de gasolina antes de chegar perto das cidades fronteiricas porque a forca militar nao permite encher galoes extras nas mesmas e a gasolina no Peru e muito mais cara.



DESCABELOS

- Nenhum.

ECUADOR

When they entered Ecuador they perceived it as being a tranquil country, despite its poor looking villages. Because it was already late, they stayed at the first motel they saw just before Tulcan. The room was beautiful. clean and cheap, but there was an out of control couple next door who somewhat disturbed the travelers' sleep. They left to the south very early in the morning to visit the La Paz Grutta and its hot springs. A river emerges from this cave, and it may be considered a natural church because benches and a saint image were added to its interior. The hot springs were manmade, well kept and didn't cost anything that day.
WELCOME TO ECUADOR

LA PAZ GRUTTA  
INSIDE THE HOT SPRING CHURCH

From there the goal was to get to Quito and visit the middle of the world museum. Because they weren't sure how to get there, they made a research stop at an internet house quickly afraid they might not get the museum before it closed. They arrived at the Plaza Mitad del Mundo where they paid to get in and walk to the monument. Inside the monument there is a museum which appeared to be the one they found online, so they paid the entrance fee to check it out. Unfortunately it wasn't the one they were looking for (the one Debora had heard about from her french friend Gessyca). The museum she talked about was one that included a tour with fun and interesting experiments. It was two blocks away and would be open for just about another hour. They hurried leaving the erroneous monument museum (uninteresting according to both of them) and walked to the It Inan Museum. As soon as they arrived they paid their 3 dollar admittance fee and a guide quickly arrived to take them on a little journey throughout the museum. Now they were happily satisfied, especially Debora who was the only one in the group to balance an egg on top of a nail on the equator line, and she even got a certificate for it. When the tour ended they went back to the plaza to check out crafts and drink some hot chocolate before finding a hostel in nearby Quito.
THE WRONG MUSEUM TO VISIT ON THE EQUATOR LINE

WHERE NORTH AND SOUTH MEET

THE RIGHT MUSEUM TO VISIT ON THE EQUATOR LINE

THE EGG MASTER

The next day was virtually spent entirely inside the car. Since Debora was already tired of driving through mountainous roads they chose to drive towards the coast instead, even though they still had to drive through some windy terrain anyways. This route was gorgeous, full of waterfalls and cloud forests. When the villages started showing up they noticed many hanging pig bodies along the roadside with women selling fresh fried pork and corn. Starved Pat as usual had to stop to buy it, while Debora didn't even want to look at the bleeding bodies of the poor pigs.
After a few more hours they got to the beach town Manta. It was bigger than they expected and had both ugly and beautiful sides. In the later, they found a street to sleep on near the beach.
The next attractions they found online were Punta Los Frailes and Agua Blanca. Both were found in Machalilla National Park but were distinct from each other. Los Frailes ( US$ 2.00 p.p.) was a coastal area with beautiful beaches, while Aguas Blancas was an archeological site that had thermal waters. The visit to Agua Blanca included a tour guided by a native who explained some of the town's archeological history as well as bathing opportunities with sulphuric mud in the nearby thermal pool.
 HIGH MOUNTAINS OF ECUADOR

COASTAL TREES

BIG WAVES

FROM MIRADOR LAS FRAILES

LAS FRAILES

MUD BATH CREATURE

The next day they kept going down the coastal highway full of sandy beaches and big waves good for surfing. They got to Salinas, as planned, and slept once more very close to the beach.
They made breakfast on the beachfront  before leaving towards El Cajas National Park. They couldn't avoid Guayaquil city, which was on the way, and got lost for a little while. After they found the right direction they continued towards the park, which took them over the Andes once more. At the high altitude it became foggy, rainy, and of course slow, but they could still see some of the natural beauty and wildlife in the park such as lakes and llamas. Due to the weather they decided to not get out of the car and continued driving slowly to observe the natural wonders that could be seen from the road on the way to Cuenca.
Cuenca is a colonial town, and despite being touristic, has great prices in its restaurants. The couple decided to stay at a hostel there to rest from the tiring drive.
Debora and Pat were torn about what border with Peru they would take. They researched a little and Loja, the inland rout, seemed to be the most interesting but it would be a longer drive potentially requiring an extra day to leave Ecuador. Via El Oro near the coat, it would probably be less interesting but much faster. They chose El Oro. Nearly one year ago Ecuador opened an alternative passage through the border here, and it seemed like not many people were aware of it because the travelers were in and out of the aduana and immigration offices quickly and nicely without having to wait in lines. Supposedly the nearby older border crossing was chaotic and slow because the locals use it to shop in Aguas Verdes. Thankfully they didn't get to see it with their own eyes.
Some of the highlights of Ecuador were: equal attraction prices for nationals and internationals, good gas prices, cheap and tasty food, friendly locals and immigration and aduana officers.



TRICKS

- Fill up with gas before getting to the border towns because the military does not allow filling extra bottles in those and gas is much more expensive in Peru.


TROUBLES

- None.

COLOMBIA PARTE 2

As  coisas comecaram a melhorar quando chegaram a cidade Cucuta da Venezuela depois de um terrivel transito na fronteira. Cucuta parece bonita e segura, alias, a maioria das cidades grandes na Colombia tambem, mas eles nao ficaram la. Numa tentativa de fazer progresso na viagem continuaram dirigindo ao sul e acabaram dirigindo a noite por estradas montanhosas lentas e dificeis.
Cerca das 22:00 chegaram a cidade Bucamaranga, que apesar de serios deslizamentos e destruicao na periferia perto da estrada, continuava bela. Eles dormiram no carro numa rua protegida e agradavel e de manha Pat acordou sentindo-se mal (provavelmente por causa de sobras de pizza de Michelana, Venezuela, que haviam comido para o almoco no dia anterior), mas ficou sano logo depois de uma parada rapida no banheiro do Carrefour. De la continuaram dirigindo pelos andes colombianos em estradas cenicas, com pouco transito e bem asfaltada ate alcancarem Bogota no fim da tarde.
Esperavam encontrar uma vizinhanca boa para dormir no carro mas desenconrajaram-se ao ver o quao grande a cidade era e por seu transito local da hora do rush. Por isso decidiram nao sair da estrada principal em busca da vizinhanca ideal, que poderia ser dificil de encontrar. Em vez disso, continuaram dirigindo mais algumas horas ate livrarem-se do transito caotico e sair de Bogota em busca de um lugar para dormir. Encontraram a cidade Fusagasuga (tambem conhecida como Fusa) uma surpresa boa porque logo que la chegaram e fizeram sua primeira curva para verificar o local, imediatamente encontraram uma vizinhanca toda enfeitada e iluminada com luzes de Natal na qual passaram uma noite calma de sono no carro. 
Na manha seguinte fizeram cafe num pequeno parque bem perto de onde estavam estacionados e brincaram com cachorros que estavam passeando com seus donos. Depois disso continuaram dirigindo por mais estradas montanhosas com transito terrivel, provavelmente porque era vespera de ano novo, e passando por muitas cidades ate chegarem a Cali que nao os agradou nem um pouco. Essa foi a primeira cidade grande na Colombia que pareceu-lhes feia, suja e perigosa por isso nao recomendam a visita.
Dirigiram um pouco mais ate Popayan e passaram a vespera do Ano Novo la, onde ficaram um pouco bebados por tomarem uma garrafa de vinho com estomago vazio. Popayan era uma cidade boa e encontraram um hotel barato para ficar. Caminharam pela cidade a noite com o intuito de jantar e ver pessoas celebrando, mas como estava chovendo nao foram muito longe. Mesmo assim encontraram deliciosos e baratos cachorros-quentes, pizza e empanadas para a ceia. Como somente um pouco de alcohol  foi o suficiente para deixa-los "contentes" na vespera, nao ficaram de ressaca e puderam levantar cedo para dirigir pelas ruas vazias e ver as brancas casas coloniais de Popayan antes de continuar a caminho do Equador.
Este foi um dos mais cenicos encontrados na viagem, com cachoeiras e profundo canyon. Pouco antes de sair do pais pararam em Ipiales para ver sua magnifica catedral construida sobre um canyon.
O dia 1 de janeiro de 2011 foi passado com estilo ao lado de emperequetadas llamas e pioneiras na viagem, uma ocasiao que decidiram considerar um dia de sorte, e registrar com fotos.
Depois de fazer a papelada na imigracao e aduana, entraram no Equador ao cair da noite.



DICAS

- Beber com estomago vazio as vezes pode ser bom, principalmente se for pao-duro.


DESCABELOS

- O transito estava TERRIVEL especialmente saindo de Bogota em direcao ao oeste por muitos quilometros, e provavelmente foi devido ao Ano Novo.

COLOMBIA PART 2

Things started feeling better when they crossed into the city of Cucuta from Venezuela after the horrible border traffic. Cucuta looked good, in fact most of the largest towns in Colombia felt quite safe and looked nice, but they didn't stay. They headed south attempting to make headway fast and kept on driving into the night for a few extra hours on slow, rough mountain roads. 
CANYON

ROADSIDE SCENERY

Around 10:00 p.m. they descended into a large good looking city called Bucaramanga despite remanences of  recent serious landslides and destruction on its out-skirt roads. They slept in the car on a safe looking street, and in the morning Pat woke up sick (probably from some left over pizza from Michelana Venezuela they had eaten the night before), but he cured the problem with a pit-stop in the local grocery store. From there they continued all day through the Colombian Andes on beautiful scenic roads, with little traffic and great pavement until they got to Bogota in the late afternoon.
They were hoping to find a nice place to sleep in the car but were discouraged by Bogota's large size and commuter traffic. They had arrived at rush hour and decided not to waste time exiting the highway in search of a nearby safe neighborhood which might not be easy to find. Instead they chose to press on through the chaotic traffic and out of Bogota for a couple hours more in search of a place to rest. They found Fusagasuga (a.k.a Fusa) which surprised them pleasantly, because as soon as they entered the town and made their first random turn onto a side-street, they immediately encountered a nice colorful Christmas lit neighborhood in which they spent a quiet night's sleep in the car.
In the morning they made coffee in a small park next to their parking spot and played with some pet dogs that were being walked by their owners. After that they drove through more beautiful Colombian Andes mountains, some of which had New Years eve heavy traffic, passing by many large and small towns until they got to Cali which did not appeal to them. It was the first big city in Colombia that looked ugly, dirty and dangerous so they do not recommend a stop there. They drove a bit further to Popayan where they spent the New Years Eve getting buzzed with empty stomaches on one bottle of wine. It was a nice town and they found a cheap hotel to stay at. They walked around at night to eat and see some people celebrating, but it was rainy so they didn't go too far. Still they had some cheap and delicious empanadas, pizza and hotdogs (the cheapest food they had found in Colombia so far). A little alcohol on New Years eve was enough to make them happily drunk, but they weren't hung over in the morning, so they got up early and drove through the empty streets past colonial white buildings of sleeping Popayan before they moved along towards Ecuador.
On the way towards the border they drove through beautiful roadside scenery with waterfalls and a deep canyon, and just before exiting the country they stopped in the town of Ipiales to see its spectacular cathedral built over a canyon.
They decided to consider the first of 2011 a good luck day for seeing their first llamas dressed in full attire, an occasion that certainly deserved some pictures.  
After a bit of paper work they entered Ecuador at nightfall.
IPIALES CATHEDRAL

SIDEWAYS

WATERFALL BY THE CATHEDRAL

HEEEE-HAW

MEET CHOCOLATE

LUXURIOUS LLAMAS



TRICKS

- Drinking with an empty stomach can be good sometimes, especially if you're cheap.


TROUBLES

- The traffic was TERRIBLE especially leaving Bogota westward for many miles, and it was probably because of New Years Day.

Thursday, January 13, 2011

VENEZUELA


For this experience Venezuela can be divided in three parts: way to Caracas, relaxation and Christmas in Caracas and travel through the Andes.

After crossing the northern border of Colombia and Venezuela, Debora and Pat kept driving through the north and its flooded areas. The flood problem here was less than the colombian but the heavy traffic of old falling apart Chevys caused a new challenge on the journey. Also the road was full with potholes and had dead dogs that had been run over everywhere.
The gas stations near the border were empty so they could only get gas in Maracaibo. The cost to fill up a tank with good quality gas in Venezuela was only US$ 1,50. To give you a quick idea on todays rates: officially, 1 dollar equals 4 bolivares, but in the black market (and how everyone calculates their money) it equals 8. Therefore it is not recommended that the tourist make calculations with the official rate or he could get demotivated and even give up going to the country. It is also not recommended withdrawing money from the bank in order to not lose money and also not to make dollar currency exchange openly because the dollar has become illegal in Venezuela. The travelers were able to exchange the dollars for the black market rate on the border and through people they knew.
From Maracaibo, where they spent the night at a shopping mall's parking lot, they continued on to Chichiriviche which is a small beach town. They stayed at a hotel where Debora spent a good amount of time playing with the kitties that lived there. Chichiriviche is located inside Morrocoy National Park which has touristic attractions such as sandy islands and caves, but they skipped the chance and left to Caracas the next morning.
Sandy island seen from Chichiriviche

Everyone the couple told they would go to Caracas hurried to say that the place was bad, very dangerous, had a lot of murders, thefts, etc. But Pat and Debora didn't let the comments shake them and went anyways because they wanted to visit and spend Christmas with some of Pat's friends.
Pat knows Dan and Andrea since high school and the couple had recently had a baby, which made the visit anticipated.
They arrived at the address provided by Dan easily. They parked the car in front of a beautiful building and rang the intercom. Donna, Dan's mother who was there from California to spend the holidays answered, and soon Andrea was downstairs to friendly welcome them. After a few minutes they already felt at home, eating, drinking, doing their laundy (for the third time on the trip), playing with the baby Rafael and also with the dog Autana (A.K.A. Chupi: short for Chupa Cabra).
"Let me stay in the bed" face

No comments 
Chupi

After a few hours Dan arrived from work and more offers to food and drinks were made. The cook for the night was Bob, Dan's father, who prepared some tasty chicken curry and rice.
The following days continued that way, involving lots of food, drinks, jokes and laziness. The couple didn't do anything else, didn't post on the blog, researched for the trip, paid attention to nothing, all they did was relax and shop for some Christmas gifts. They even forgot to take pictures with the baby!
Everyone went to Andrea's aunt and uncle's house for Christmas eve. By then, the couple had already met many members of the family who were all very friendly and energetic. The celebration was filled with delicious food, including the venezuelan typical dish allaca. Another highlight was the game secret enemy in which the travelers could take part on and give one of the most desired gifts of the night: a Playboy magazine.
After the celebration they spent the night at Andrea's parents' house who were very kind all the time. The next morning they gathered at Dan and Andrea's apartment for a Christma's lunch where more unwrapping of gifts was involved. Debora and Pat got 2 gifts each.
The time they spent in Caracas was very fun and relaxing thanks to Dan, Andrea and their families: "I felt as if I was sucking milk from a tit", says Pat referencing the popular Peruvian song Tetita by Wendy Sulca.
Best buddies

Where is little Rafael?!

D&P

They left the easiness of Caracas experience on the 26th in the morning to go back to Colombia and continue the trip through South America. They passed by Barquisimeto and got to a historic and colonial town called Carora where they stayed the night at a hotel. In the morning they kept going on the southeast road through the Andean mountains. There had been a lot of land slides on the edges of the road, but they weren't too recent because the road had already been reopened. The path through the mountains was long and slow, but also very beautiful. The scenery and the mountain towns (especially between Timotes and Merida) made it worth it to drive the long day without getting very far. They only got to Apartaderos before nightfall where they were tempted to stay because it was such a warm and cute town. They stayed at a hotel/lodge that reminded them of the cold winter with its heavy flannel and wool blankets. In the morning they continued their trip but didn't get very far again because of the windy and steep roads. They had to spend the night at a hostal in Michelena which is relatively close to the border.
First Andes views

One of the many landslides on the road

Apartadero

Exiting through the south border was a nightmare. It took them 5 hours to drive 100 kilometers because of traffic. Most of it was due to endless lines of cars in front of gas stations blocking the roads.
Because the couple heard multiple people say, including cops, that it was against the law to take venezuelan gas over the border, they didn't fill up their extra 5 gallon container they carry.
When they finally got to the border they had to pay 65 bolivares each to exit the country.
Unfortunately nobody inspected the car to check if there was extra gas, drugs, corpses, etc, which made the travelers a bit frustrated.


TRICKS

- Again: try to exchange dollars on the black market instead of withdrawing money because it virtually doubles your money.




TROUBLES

- Roads full of potholes.
- Disrespectful drivers towards stray dogs.

VENEZUELA


Nessa experiencia pode-se dividir a Venezuela em tres partes: caminho a Caracas, descanso e Natal em Caracas e passagem pelos Andes.

Depois de cruzar a fronteira nordica da Colombia e Venezuela Debora e Pat continuaram dirigindo pelo norte e suas areas alagadas. O problema da inundacao estava um pouco melhor do que o do lado colombiano, mas o transito de chevettes velhos e caindo aos pedacos criou um novo desafio na jornada. Alem disso a estrada estava cheia de buracos e cachorros atropelados praticamente em cada esquina.
Os postos de gasolina perto da fronteira estavam vazios, por isso so puderam abastecer em Maracaibo. O custo para encher o tanque com gasolina da boa na Venezuela foi de US$ 1,50, ou seja, menos de 3 reais! Para ter-se uma rapida ideia da quotacao atual: 1 dolar americano vale 1,70 reais e, oficialmente, 4 bolivares, mas no mercado negro (e no que todos se baseam) 1 dolar iguala 8 bolivares. Nao se aconselha ao turista fazer calculos com a quota oficial ou o mesmo podera desmotivar-se e ate desistir de visitar o pais. Tambem nao se aconselha fazer retiros de banco para nao sair perdendo e nao fazer transacoes com dolar abertamente porque a moeda esta abolida do pais e e ilegal carrega-la. Os viajantes conseguiram trocar dolar por 7 ou 8 bolivares na fronteira e tambem por intermedio de conhecidos.
De Maracaibo, onde passaram a noite num estacionamento de shopping, continuaram a viagem ate Chichiriviche que e uma cidadezinha praieira tranquila. Ficaram num hotel onde Debora passou boa parte do tempo brincando com os gatos que moravam ali. Chichiriviche esta localizada dentro do parque nacional Morrocoy que tem atracoes turisticas como belas ilhas e cavernas, por exemplo, mas eles passaram a oportunidade e partiram para Caracas na manha seguinte.

Todas as pessoas a quem o casal comunicava a visita a Caracas se precipitavam em dizer que o lugar nao era bom, muito perigoso, com grandes numeros de assassinatos, roubos, entre outros. Mas Pat e Debora nao se deixaram abalar e foram mesmo assim porque queriam visitar e passar o natal com amigos de Pat.
Pat conhece Dan e Andrea desde os tempos do ginasio/ ensino medio e eles acabavam de ter um bebe, portanto a visita era iminente. 
Os viajantes chegaram ao endereco providenciado por Dan sem problemas. Estacionaram o carro na frente de um predio bonito e tocaram o interfone. Donna, mae de Dan que estava visitando da California para as festas de fim de ano, respondeu e, prontamente, Andrea desceu para recebe-los com muita simpatia. Alguns minutos depois ja se sentiam em casa, comiam, bebiam, lavavam roupa (pela terceira vez na viagem), brincavam com o bebe Rafael e tambem a cadela Autana (tambem conhecida como Chupi: abreviacao para Chupa Cabra).
Depois de algumas horas Dan chegou do servico e com ele mais ofertas de comida e bebida. O cozinheiro da noite foi Bob, pai de Dan, que preparou um saboroso frango curry com arroz.
Assim continuaram os dias seguintes, envolvendo muita comida, bebida, brincadeira e preguica. O casal nao fez mais nada, nao se correspondeu no blog, nao fez pesquisa para a viagem, nao prestou atencao em nada alem de relaxar e tentar encontrar uns presentinhos de Natal. Ate esqueceram de tirar fotos com o bebe!
Todos passaram a vespera de Natal na casa de tios de Andrea. Ate entao, D&P ja tinham conhecido muitos membros da familia, todos muito simpaticos e de alto astral. A celebracao foi repleta de comida deliciosa, incluindo o prato tipico venezuelano allaca. Outro destaque foi a brincadeira enemigo secreto na qual os viajantes puderam participar e dar um dos presentes mais cobicados da noite: uma revista da Playboy.
Depois da celebracao passaram a noite na casa dos pais de Andrea que, a todo tempo, foram gente bonissima. Na manha seguinte, reuniram-se no apartamento de Dan e Andrea para um almoco natalino e abertura de mais presentes. Debora e Pat ganharam 2 presentes cada.
Todos os dias que passaram em Caracas foram muito divertidos relaxantes gracas a Dan e sua familia: "Me senti como um bebe mamando na mae", diz Pat dos bons tempos e faz mencao da musica Tetita de Wendy Sulca.

Deixaram o bem bom na manha do dia 26 para voltar a Colombia e continuar sua viagem pela America do Sul. Passaram por Barquisimeto e chegaram a cidade historica e colonial de Carora onde passaram a noite em um hotel. De manha continuaram na estrada ao sudeste, pelas montanhas andinas. Havia muito deslizamentos nas beiras da estrada, mas nao eram tao recentes porque a mesma ja tinha sido desbloqueada. O caminho pelas montanhas foi longo e vagaroso, porem muito belo. As paisagens e cidadezinhas montanhescas (especialmente entre Timotes e Merida) fizeram valer a pena dirigir o longo dia sem percorrer muita distancia. Somente chegaram a Apartaderos antes do cair da noite onde foram tentados a ficar por ser uma cidadezinha tao aconchegante. Alojaram-se num hotel/ lodge que os relembrou do inverno frio com seus cobertores pesados de flanela e la. De manha continuaram a viagem mas nao foram muito longe novamente devido a estrada ser cheia de curvas e inclinacoes. Tiveram que passar a noite num albergue em Michelena que e uma cidade relativamente perto da fronteira.
Sair pela fronteira sul foi um pesadelo por causa do transito que levou 5 horas para percorrer 100 quilometros. Filas sem fim de carros em postos de gasolina bloqueando a estrada foi o que causou a maioria dos atrasos.
Como o casal ouviu diferentes pessoas dizer, inclusive policiais, que era contra a lei levar gasolina da Venezuela, nao encheram sua garrafa extra de 5 galoes que traziam. 
Quando finalmente chegaram a fronteira tiveram que pagar 65 bolivares cada para sair do pais.
Infelizmente ninguem fez inspecao do carro para verificar se tinha gasolina extra, drogas, defunto, etc. o que causou certa frustacao nos viajantes.



DICAS

- Repetindo: tente trocar dolares no mercado negro em vez de retirar dinheiro no banco, isso faz com que seu dinheiro praticamente se multiplique.


DESCABELOS

- Estradas cheias de buracos.
- Desrespeito de motoristas contra cachorros de rua.

Friday, January 7, 2011

EMBARCACAO DO INFERNO PARTE 2 & COLOMBIA PARTE 1

O voo mais economico de Panama ate Colombia era a noite. Quando chegaram a Cartagena as 22:30 ja haviam planejado dormir no aeroporto, se possivel, para economizar com estadia. O fato da mala ter atrasado 2 horas para chegar ajudou a conseguir a simpatia dos segurancas do aeroporto.
Pela manha foram de onibus ate o centro de Cartagena onde teriam que ficar uns dias ate resgatar o carro do terminal maritimo. Muito sortudos os viajantes encontraram um quarto privado no hotel Casa de Tatis por apenas US$ 20,00. Sortudos porque era o unico quarto disponivel e porque outras hospedarias estavam cobrando mais para dividir um dormitorio com outras pessoas.
Depois de descarregar as malas, foram ver as praias da area a pe. Uma das inumeras massagistas de origem africana dali deu uma demonstracao gratis a eles e, porque foi muito simpatica, prometeram voltar para fazer a massagem no dia seguinte. 
Como sao gente de palavra, regressaram a praia e buscaram pela mulher para fazer a massagem. O trato feito no dia anterior era uma massagem de 30 minutos nas costas por US$ 6,00. Quando comecou foram praticamente forcados a fazer a massagem de corpo todo pelo dobro do preco. Alem de tudo, a massagem acabou levando menos que os 30 minutos garantidos. Os viajantes pagaram e voltaram ao hotel meio cabisbaixos. 
Na segunda-feira Pat e Luiz* (ver blog anterior) foram ao terminal maritimo e aos escritorios de aduana para buscar o carro. La ficaram das 9:00 as 18:00 e nao conseguiram retirar o carro porque os "trabalhadores" e especialmente o inspetor eram muito lentos e ineficazes, sem contar que tiram suas 2 horas sagradas de almoco. 
As 9 da manha do dia seguinte Luiz, Pat e Debora foram tentar resolver o resto da burocracia. O inspetor ainda nao havia terminado seu trabalho que havia comecado na manha anterior: preencher UMA folha especificando a marca e o modelo, placa, numero do chasi e o nome do proprietario do veiculo.
Conseguiram sair com a documentacao do escritorio do inspetor de aduana as 10 da manha e de la foram a outro escritorio terminar a papelada. Logicamente, o danado do inspetor se esqueceu de marcar um X no quadrado que dizia que o automovel estava liberado. Mais 30 minutos gastos para passear de um predio a outro por causa de incompetencia alheia. O tempo passou e ja era hora do almoco de 2 horas do pessoal, entao os viajantes trataram de comer alguma coisa e comprar seguro de carro obrigatorio. Pontualmente as 14:00, quando o almoco acaba, ja estavam no escritorio para retirar o carro. La tiveram que esperar mais de 1 hora ate um funcionario leva-los para o setor de desembarque de automoveis. Luiz e Pat foram e Debora esperou na sala de espera. Esperou, esperou e esperou ate que Pat voltou com o carro feliz da vida aproximadamente as 18:30h. Levou o dia todo, mas aconteceu! O carro tinha sido retirado!
Voltaram para o hotel para descansar sua ultima noite em Cartagena e de manha puseram o pe na estrada em direcao ao parque nacional Tairona. O norte do pais estava sofrendo muito com chuvas e havia uma larga area com casas e terrenos alagados em agua funda. Contudo as estradas nao estavam inundadas porque nao havia chovido nos ultimos 2 dias. Muitos residentes locais estavam tentando parar carros na estrada para recolher ajuda financeira.
Chegaram a Rodadero no cair da tarde e alugaram um apartamento de verdade por so US$ 25.00 ao dia. Rodadero e uma cidade bonita, mas so ficaram ali ate o dia seguinte no qual foram a praia antes de entregar o apartamento. Continuaram com a intencao de visitar o parque Tairona naquele dia, mas quando chegaram e descobriram o preco ( quase US$ 50,00) mudaram de opiniao rapidamente. Supostamente as praias e paisagens do parque sao deslumbrantes, mas por causa do preco e tambem das chuvas, para eles a melhor decisao era continuar dirigindo. 
Quase a noite chegaram a Riohacha onde dormiram no carro antes de cruzar a fronteira de Maicao e adentrar a Venezuela.


DICAS

- Tenha paciencia, o passo na maioria dos paises visitados ate agora e bem lento.



DESCABELOS

- Colombia tem gasolina mais cara ate agora.

SHIPPING FROM HELL PART 2 AND COLOMBIA PART 1

The cheapest flight from Panama to Colombia was at night. By the time they arrived in Cartagena at 10:30 p.m. they had already planned to sleep at the airport, if possible, to save money. The fact that the luggage was 2 hours late helped to gain the security guards sympathy.
By morning they took the bus to downtown Cartagena where they would have to stay a few days till they could rescue the car from the maritime terminal. Luckly they found a private room at Casa Tatis Hotel for only US$ 20.00. Lucky indeed because it was the last room and because hostels were charging more to share a dorm with other people.
After dropping the luggage in the room they went to the beaches on foot. One of the many ladies there with African origins gave them a free massage sample, and because she was very friendly they promised to come back for a massage the following day.
Colorful Cartagena Corner

Old Town Cartagena

More OTC

Because they always keep their word, they went back for the massage and found the woman. The deal made the previous day was that they would get a 30 minute back massage for US$ 6.00. When the massage started they were virtually forced to get the full body one for double the price, and it lasted less than the 30 guaranteed minutes. The couple paid and went back to the hotel a little depressed.
On Monday Pat and Luiz* (see previous blog) went to the shipping terminal and the aduana offices to get the car. They stayed there from 9 a.m. until 6 p.m. and couldn't get the car because the "workers", and especially the aduana inspector, were very slow and inefficient, and they have their sacred 2 hour lunch break.
At 9 a.m. the next day, Luiz, Pat and Debora tried to get the rest of the bureaucracy done. The inspector still hadn't finished the work he started the previous morning: filling in the blanks of ONE page specifying the make and model, year, vin number and owner of the vehicle.
They were able to get the document by 10 a.m. and from there they went to a different office to finish the paperwork. Amazingly, the freaking inspector forgot to put an X in a box that said the car was good to go. Another half hour was spent walking from one building to the other due to other people's incompetency. Time passed and it was time for the staff's 2 hour lunch, so the travelers also went to eat and take care of the obligatory car insurance. At 2 o'clock sharp, when lunch ended, they were already at the terminal office to get the car. They had to wait there another hour before an employee took them to the car unloading area. Luiz and Pat went and Debora waited. She waited and waited till Pat returned with a happy face at about 6:30 p.m. It took all day, but it had happened! They got the car out!
They returned to the hotel to rest their last night in Cartagena, and in the morning they took off towards Tairona National Park. The north of the country was suffering from heavy rains, and there was a wide area with houses and land immersed in deep water. Despite that, the roads weren't flooded because it hadn't rained the last couple of days. Many local people throughout the area were trying to stop the cars to collect financial help.
The couple reached the town of Rodadero at dusk and rented a whole 1 bedroom apartment for only US$ 25.00 a day. Rodadero is a beautiful town, but they only stayed there until the morning when they went to the beach before leaving the place.
Real apartment


Rodadero and beach view from the apartment's deck

Pat at Rodadero beach

They still planned on visiting Tairona that day, but when they arrived and found out the price (almost US$ 50.00) they quickly changed their mind. Supposedly the park's scenery and beaches are gorgeous, but because of the price and also the rainy weather they thought it would be wiser just to continue driving.
Almost at night, they arrived in Riohacha where they slept in the car before crossing the Maicao border into Venezuela.

P.S.: for more info about our shipping experience go to http://lostworldexpedition.com/Updates/ 

TRICKS

- Be patient, the pace in the majority of the countries yet visited is very slow.


TROUBLES

- Colombia has had the most expensive gas so far.