Heading into central Mexico brought a nice change of climate. Still without air conditioning, it was good to be at a higher altitude region with cooler air. When entering Guadalajara traffic was bad as in any other big city. The downtown areas so far have had one-way narrow streets that make traffic even slower. Despite that, it is a nice place and the cemetery Panteon Guadalajara is worth visiting. The smaller surrounding towns are also nice and have less traffic. Chapala for instance is located about 35 miles south of Guadalajara on the shore of a huge lake. This charming small city has sidewalks with palm trees where people sell food and clothing from tents, and mexican bands play at request.
After spending the night in a motel, Debora and Pat left for Cholula at 8 a.m. with a stop in Morelia to get gas, food, check out the city, use the internet, and buy some pesos. Morelia is the capital of Michoacan, and its traffic is as bad as Guadalajara's, therefore it is best to park your car and walk around to get stuff done.
On the safe toll road, the border into Mexico state was almost unnoticed. But things changed when crossing into D.F.. After leaving the toll booth they were followed and stopped by a federal police car. The cop had a happy face already because he knew he was gonna make some extra money from the gringos with the California plates. According to the cop, cars crossing into D.F. must have a sort of fumigation inspection, and an infraction was in order. After almost 30 minutes of resistance, the couple finally paid a bribe and headed out of D.F. taking an alternate way to Cholula, which ironically was explained to them in a very friendly and helpful manner by the same cop.
The nice houses of the town of Cuernavaca were very pleasant to see after driving through many small villages and shady winding roads through mountainous terrain. There were still a few hours left to reach Cholula when night started to fall. It was the first time the couple would be driving during the night, so they were a bit concerned. However, the roads after Cuernavaca ended up being well travelled and seemed safe. Finally, after their long 14 hour drive, they arrived in downtown Cholula (close to a modern big city called Puebla) and stayed with a friend named Jen.
The next morning the three of them hiked approximately 4,000 vertical feet to the top of nearby volcano La Malinche, which has a higher elevation than Mt. Whitney in the USA, and is the 6th highest in Mexico at 14,646 ft.
On Monday they went to work with their hostess, who happens to be a conservator at The Great Pyramid of Cholula. She has been working to conserve 1,800 year old wall paintings at the site that is not open to the public, so it was a special and rare experience to have.
Tomorrow morning - 19/Oct/2010 - they will leave to Oaxaca for two days then head east to Yucatan.
TRICKS
- get your fumigation permit before even thinking about going to D.F.
- get a Virgen Maria sticker for your car rear window
TROUBLES
- Debora got a painful stomachache, unknown reasons so far
- loss of money due to bribing corrupt cop
- wasting gas and time by getting lost and stuck in traffic a few times.
Debora on the ridge
Pat and Debora hiking steeps
They made it to the very top
Hahaha! I'm sorry you had to pay "la mordida" but that is common practice in Mexico. Cops are paid very little and that's the only way to make ends meet. In fact, it's common practice around the world. On a good note, police corruption in Mexico has been greatly reduced. So, if you are caught in a similar situation again, instead of resisting, try being very friendly and make a deal, and graciously give a reasonable donation.... Enjoy Oaxaca. If you take the route through southern Veracruz on your way to Yucatan, let me know. You can pay a visit to my wife and son. Buen viaje!
ReplyDeleteyou guys are badass!
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